Saturday, March 29, 2008


As the first week blead into the third, struggling through foreign paperwork, I begane tuning in on certain spirits:

After three weeks, I was as ready as I could be, and headed further south. And the world opened before me. The feeling of cruising through such country on a motorcycle is difficult to describe.

From The Journal:

March 15th, 2008
...and made it into Puerto Bertrand circa 7:00 last night. Got a room in a lodge run by a dingy old fisherman with droopy eyelids, by the name of Escobar. He let me cook my dinner on his stove while he watched a programe on tantric sex. Kinda an awkward experience.

I had initially planned to go to the pueblo of Cochrane in order to take part in the protest of three dams that will most likely be put in on the Baker River. I was going to paint scenes of the areas that will eventually be flooded, but my paints had long since dried up, and I couldnt find the protest location worth the life of me. Furthermore, over the previous weeks discussing the topic with chileans, I had grown more and more uncomfortable taking a position on the matter as a Gringo. I still personally believe the dams are not the right answer, but I feel that it is important the people opposed to the dams put more stress on the alternatives, because there is in fact a need for energy. Possable alternatives I have heard spoken of are wind farms in the north, and tide turbines around the island of Chiloe. Certaintly diversity is best.
to learn more about the issue visit this site:

I back-tracked north, to cross the border into Argentina at Chile Chico. Lago General Carrera was magnificent. Heading south on route 40, in the high desert of Argentina, I quickly spotted three forms of wildlife I had previously never seen. Armadillos, ground birds resembling ostriches, yet a bit smaller, and some sort of deer in relation to alpaca, or llamas.
And then El Chalten, and the marvels of the Fitz-Roy mountain range.

spied a few woodpeckers on my way down.

Driving back north on route 40 to retrieve some more paperwork from Coyhaique, I stoped to document some of the changes taking place. In another five years most of Route 40 in Argentina, and route 7 in Chile will be under Tarmac. I am thankful to get the chance to visit these areas on dirtbike before they are changed forever.
And then my chain fell off.

But it is fixed now, and I'm waiting in Coyhaique again for some work to be done to the rack on my bike.

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